After class Thursday, the girls and I went for manicure/pedicure combos. I spent about $13 U.S. dollars for French nails. Ooh la la. They are lovely - my nails have been growing like crazy in this heat, and Thai massage isn't something I really need short nails for, so I went for it. I am loving the treatments here. Sitting in a nail salon with a group of ladies getting pretty is just the kind of thing that makes a person appreciate being a girl.
The culture of this place is a strange dichotomy of appearance focused young Thai people and hippie westerners wandering around, burned to a crisp, sweating and makeup free. You can get anything and everything done here - Botox, Microdermabrasion, Skin Whitening, Cosmetic Dentistry, etc. can be found in every mall. Plastic surgery (very cheap here to westerners), is all over the place. Spas, med-spas, slimming shops, waxing, nails, hair extensions, you name it... are in shops that line the canal streets of the Old City. It is insane. It is sad. I will stick to my detox treatments and massage. Health - yes. Nose job? Heck no. At some point, we all have to let go of the superficial nonsense that is taking over this world. (Says the woman who just wrote above that she got a manicure/pedicure - ha ha).
How crazy is it to be in a city this old and with this much history and see non-stop billboards advertising an insurmountable physical ideal? It makes my heart cry. As does the air pollution. I have two words for you Thailand - emissions testing... seriously! My eyes, nose and throat hurt if I am in traffic for too long. I am not in any way hating on this place that I have grown to love so much - I am merely finding interesting revelations in the day to day.
That being said, I wanted to try some authentic Thai cuisine to re-set my need for authenticity. My digestion is back on track, so I had a craving for some good stuff. Pad Thai is everywhere here, but I had yet to try it because I was making sure I didn't get sick again. So, the girls took me to their favorite restaurant for Pad Thai, and I must say, I was not disappointed in any way. The flavors were at the same time simple and complex. It was the perfect vegetarian dish (they even made it without eggs as I requested) - flavorful and nutritious. My mouth was so happy and my tummy was even happier. It exceeded all of my expectations and made me want to order another dish. I will defintely be eating at that restaurant again soon...
Saturday, June 11, 2011
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
Locusts and such
Every day in class, we learn with the large windows wide open. We can hear the birds and insects and the incessant barking dogs (it sounds like wrestle mania for dogs on a daily basis). And inevitably, the locusts fly into the room. They fly all around and then settle on the ledge at the bottom of the window - flipped upside down with their legs flailing in the air - wings buzzing erratically. I can imagine that they lie there looking out at the world, just wanting to flip over and go. Much like the locusts, for too long I have been on my back looking at the world just wanting to go. I have finally flipped over.
I managed to just introduce myself to a stranger completely on my own. Her name is Nicole and she is in the room next to ours. She is a yoga teacher from Australia, and is here studying Thai massage. She has been here for three months already and is about to head home to her little island resort where she teaches. I was hungry for some new companionship, so I just decided to knock on her door and introduce myself. I guess I was lonely for home and wanted to chat with someone completely on their own - to find out how to deal with the solitude. She and I walked down to one of the many local (tiny) restaurants where the Pad Thai is outstanding. We had a couple of beers and chatted about her life in Australia and mine in the U.S. We are the same age, and have sisters the same age and had so much in common. I loved listening to her lilting accent and the way she phrased her words. She was excellent company and spoke wonderful Thai. She gave me lots of tips about Chiang Mai and encouraged me to travel solo (her favorite way to go). At the end of the evening, we hugged goodbye and I thanked her for sharing some time with me. I will probably never see her again, but I relished her company and her experience out in the world.
There is much that I have learned about myself here. There is much that I am still learning. I have had my patience and sense of independence tested. I have lost parts of myself and found parts of myself. I have let go of a lot - but the more I let go, the further I go back into the past. It's like peeling away layers of an onion. I have discovered hidden parts of me, that have been deep inside for a long, long time.
This process of being out in the world is difficult. It tests the very limits of my self. I tear myself down and build myself back up again and again, each time becoming stronger and more self aware. Like my body changing with the massage, my soul has changed - become more flexible and less rigid. It is becoming comfortable with the unfamiliar, at home with the unknown..
Lunch today was at a vegetarian Thai restaurant. The whole class went, and enjoyed the buffet. I tasted flavors I have never tasted before (butterfly tea made from a flower that changes color when you add syrup to it - blue to purple - so beautiful). We opened up to each other and Mint (our teacher) joked with us and teased us. We are her most fun and laziest class so far - in the afternoons it is so hot, it is impossible to concentrate and work. It was a wonderful break from the day's work. The area we ate in was uber trendy. It reminded me of Portland in some of the areas where the hipsters hang out. Lots of wine bars, Tapas restaurants, Bistros, and a restaurant devoted just to Salad. I asked Mint how much it cost to live in the area - "A loft condo in this area is very expensive. 10,000 - 12,000 Baht a month", she said. That's roughly $330 - $390 U.S. dollars. Are you kidding? I guess it's all relative. I was impressed and will revisit the area tomorrow for an iced coffee and a manicure/pedicure combo that will cost me about $8.00. Not too shabby.
Sent from my iPad
I managed to just introduce myself to a stranger completely on my own. Her name is Nicole and she is in the room next to ours. She is a yoga teacher from Australia, and is here studying Thai massage. She has been here for three months already and is about to head home to her little island resort where she teaches. I was hungry for some new companionship, so I just decided to knock on her door and introduce myself. I guess I was lonely for home and wanted to chat with someone completely on their own - to find out how to deal with the solitude. She and I walked down to one of the many local (tiny) restaurants where the Pad Thai is outstanding. We had a couple of beers and chatted about her life in Australia and mine in the U.S. We are the same age, and have sisters the same age and had so much in common. I loved listening to her lilting accent and the way she phrased her words. She was excellent company and spoke wonderful Thai. She gave me lots of tips about Chiang Mai and encouraged me to travel solo (her favorite way to go). At the end of the evening, we hugged goodbye and I thanked her for sharing some time with me. I will probably never see her again, but I relished her company and her experience out in the world.
There is much that I have learned about myself here. There is much that I am still learning. I have had my patience and sense of independence tested. I have lost parts of myself and found parts of myself. I have let go of a lot - but the more I let go, the further I go back into the past. It's like peeling away layers of an onion. I have discovered hidden parts of me, that have been deep inside for a long, long time.
This process of being out in the world is difficult. It tests the very limits of my self. I tear myself down and build myself back up again and again, each time becoming stronger and more self aware. Like my body changing with the massage, my soul has changed - become more flexible and less rigid. It is becoming comfortable with the unfamiliar, at home with the unknown..
Lunch today was at a vegetarian Thai restaurant. The whole class went, and enjoyed the buffet. I tasted flavors I have never tasted before (butterfly tea made from a flower that changes color when you add syrup to it - blue to purple - so beautiful). We opened up to each other and Mint (our teacher) joked with us and teased us. We are her most fun and laziest class so far - in the afternoons it is so hot, it is impossible to concentrate and work. It was a wonderful break from the day's work. The area we ate in was uber trendy. It reminded me of Portland in some of the areas where the hipsters hang out. Lots of wine bars, Tapas restaurants, Bistros, and a restaurant devoted just to Salad. I asked Mint how much it cost to live in the area - "A loft condo in this area is very expensive. 10,000 - 12,000 Baht a month", she said. That's roughly $330 - $390 U.S. dollars. Are you kidding? I guess it's all relative. I was impressed and will revisit the area tomorrow for an iced coffee and a manicure/pedicure combo that will cost me about $8.00. Not too shabby.
Sent from my iPad
Tuesday, June 7, 2011
Back on the bike :)
I found my groove in class today. Maybe it was the Japanese Sauna from yesterday... I felt like it drained away the last of my sickness. I don't mean sickness just from the travel and food and electrolyte imbalance. In a way, those were (in my mind) the remnants of the stress and anger and exhaustion and lack of time for myself that have built up over time. Every part of me is in healing mode right now and I am so letting go of all the b.s. Getting sick was the first stage of my detoxification process.
Anyway - back in class, I found a flow with the work that was previously just steps. I feel like it is becoming my own again - which is reassuring and more to my liking. We have learned everything we are going to learn, and over the next few days will be putting it all together over and over again. I like that - I like getting out of my head and into my body and just flowing with the work. That is the part of massage therapy that I am used to and feel at home with.
After class I again went back to the sauna. This time I tried a slimming detox treatment. I was stripped down, wrapped in cellophane by two young, friendly Thai women and then compressed and squeezed by this contraption that in my wildest dreams, I never would have come up with. I thought that by the time I was done I would certainly look like a svelte size 2, but alas, I have softer skin and (slightly) less visible cellulite - but nothing more. I did sweat more than I ever thought I could, so who knows what tomorrow will bring. It was certainly fun...
I have really lost the hangups I used to have about my body. I have this freedom from the treatments I have been getting - the Thai women in the spas don't seem to have any qualms about my naked flesh, so why should I? They handle me with efficiency and no modesty whatsoever (not to mention small but strong hands). And since I don't understand what they are saying, I can only assume they are complimenting me, right? It's funny. I don't have the slightest care about it anymore. I am just here to feel good.
When I got back to the guesthouse, Cory was waiting to give me my next bike lesson. The street was clear and quiet, so it was the perfect opportunity for me to take off and just try. I picked it up quite quickly - all remaining fears from the other night completely gone. I went up and down the street, navigating passing cars and bikes and just got it. Freedom!!! I then hit the open road for a bit, and holy crap - I had it. Now I want a Vespa to tool around on at home. Practical? No. Fun? You bet your a**. :) I am unstoppable, now. It's just too bad the bike has to be returned in three days. Not enough time for me to get my Easy Rider on, but I will do the best that I can :)
Anyway - back in class, I found a flow with the work that was previously just steps. I feel like it is becoming my own again - which is reassuring and more to my liking. We have learned everything we are going to learn, and over the next few days will be putting it all together over and over again. I like that - I like getting out of my head and into my body and just flowing with the work. That is the part of massage therapy that I am used to and feel at home with.
After class I again went back to the sauna. This time I tried a slimming detox treatment. I was stripped down, wrapped in cellophane by two young, friendly Thai women and then compressed and squeezed by this contraption that in my wildest dreams, I never would have come up with. I thought that by the time I was done I would certainly look like a svelte size 2, but alas, I have softer skin and (slightly) less visible cellulite - but nothing more. I did sweat more than I ever thought I could, so who knows what tomorrow will bring. It was certainly fun...
I have really lost the hangups I used to have about my body. I have this freedom from the treatments I have been getting - the Thai women in the spas don't seem to have any qualms about my naked flesh, so why should I? They handle me with efficiency and no modesty whatsoever (not to mention small but strong hands). And since I don't understand what they are saying, I can only assume they are complimenting me, right? It's funny. I don't have the slightest care about it anymore. I am just here to feel good.
When I got back to the guesthouse, Cory was waiting to give me my next bike lesson. The street was clear and quiet, so it was the perfect opportunity for me to take off and just try. I picked it up quite quickly - all remaining fears from the other night completely gone. I went up and down the street, navigating passing cars and bikes and just got it. Freedom!!! I then hit the open road for a bit, and holy crap - I had it. Now I want a Vespa to tool around on at home. Practical? No. Fun? You bet your a**. :) I am unstoppable, now. It's just too bad the bike has to be returned in three days. Not enough time for me to get my Easy Rider on, but I will do the best that I can :)
Monday, June 6, 2011
And then came the rain...
And then came the rain....
I walk in silence. Just trying to see if this place fits. I let it surround me like a blanket - enveloping myself in the smells, sights and sounds around me. The woman at the juice stand recognizes me now. With a smile she hands me the passionfruit juice that has become part of my lunch ritual. She already has my order down in just a week. I don't think this has ever happened to me before. Of course, I don't usually have a routine.
I follow a nun walking down the street. She gives me the same glance she gives to the locals. Have I assimilated that quickly? Yesterday at the spa, the therapist working on me did not believe I was a westerner, until I said "Hawaii" upon which she smiled. It is a strange feeling to not stick out anymore. I get to blend better here than I ever have.
I feel like running, but don't want to push it. My health has normalized and I feel good. I am getting it figured out what my body can and cannot have. Maybe tomorrow I can run. Put on the headphones and just breeze down the sidewalk in my slightly-lighter-than-last-week frame. I feel very good.
Last week was all heat and fire. And the came the rain. Saturday evening it began - gray clouds rolling in over the city - making the mountains loom like guardians waiting to protect us from the torrents of mother nature. It came on so suddenly and fiercely, that I had to just stand in the doorway of the room and admire the fury in blissful awe. I say blissful because it brought a break from the oppressive heat. For once in the time since we arrived, I wasn't sweating. I tried to capture the moment in picture, but I am realizing that my best pictures are the ones I can write about. I have few camera skills - I will leave that to the pros in my life.
I had planned on meeting the girls at a movie, but the onslaught of rain forced me in. So I wrote. And wrote. And wrote until my head and hands were about to explode. I am inspired like I never have been before. I don't know if it is the city, the time away from the norm or what... I can't get enough.
Today was back to class where my flexibility has improved greatly and my skills are being honed daily. I look forward to putting it all together at the end of the week to see how it all goes. I can't help but laugh at my swagger before coming here. I was so cocky about this work - I thought I would come here to refine and learn some new things (maybe) - instead, I am re-learning how to do the work correctly and in a different sequence than what I learned before. It can be frustrating - especially when I think I have it down and realize that I don't. So, I had to jet after class today - I had to find my own space away from the group to clear my head and do the things that I need to do.
Herve' (previously mentioned as Harvey - my bad), took me to a Japanese Infrared Sauna. I sat for 50 minutes in a progressively high temperature and sweat out my frustration. He swore by the detoxifying effects (I wasn't disappointed), and we booked appointments for tomorrow after class. It gave me the same rush as my spa day, but cost much less :)
After the sauna, we walked in a park right in the middle of the city. Families were having picnics, there was some very dirty looking Thai massage going on (literally dirty - not naughty for those of you who need clarification), badminton games were in progress and joggers and walkers were navigating around the trail. There was a lovely pagoda-esque area in the center where apparently you can find Tai Chi every morning. We talked about his travels, his time in India at the ashram, his many friends all over the world. We talked about Fairfield, Iowa and his great desire to go there to spend time in the Vedic City. It was a peaceful interlude in a frustrating day.
After the walk and cooling off, we hoped on his bike and he took me to where the best vegetarian restaurant, tapas bar and salad restaurant all exist in close proximity. I was enthralled. I am in love with this city.
As he dropped me off at the guest house, I realized that once again I was inspired to write. And so here I go again :)
I walk in silence. Just trying to see if this place fits. I let it surround me like a blanket - enveloping myself in the smells, sights and sounds around me. The woman at the juice stand recognizes me now. With a smile she hands me the passionfruit juice that has become part of my lunch ritual. She already has my order down in just a week. I don't think this has ever happened to me before. Of course, I don't usually have a routine.
I follow a nun walking down the street. She gives me the same glance she gives to the locals. Have I assimilated that quickly? Yesterday at the spa, the therapist working on me did not believe I was a westerner, until I said "Hawaii" upon which she smiled. It is a strange feeling to not stick out anymore. I get to blend better here than I ever have.
I feel like running, but don't want to push it. My health has normalized and I feel good. I am getting it figured out what my body can and cannot have. Maybe tomorrow I can run. Put on the headphones and just breeze down the sidewalk in my slightly-lighter-than-last-week frame. I feel very good.
Last week was all heat and fire. And the came the rain. Saturday evening it began - gray clouds rolling in over the city - making the mountains loom like guardians waiting to protect us from the torrents of mother nature. It came on so suddenly and fiercely, that I had to just stand in the doorway of the room and admire the fury in blissful awe. I say blissful because it brought a break from the oppressive heat. For once in the time since we arrived, I wasn't sweating. I tried to capture the moment in picture, but I am realizing that my best pictures are the ones I can write about. I have few camera skills - I will leave that to the pros in my life.
I had planned on meeting the girls at a movie, but the onslaught of rain forced me in. So I wrote. And wrote. And wrote until my head and hands were about to explode. I am inspired like I never have been before. I don't know if it is the city, the time away from the norm or what... I can't get enough.
Today was back to class where my flexibility has improved greatly and my skills are being honed daily. I look forward to putting it all together at the end of the week to see how it all goes. I can't help but laugh at my swagger before coming here. I was so cocky about this work - I thought I would come here to refine and learn some new things (maybe) - instead, I am re-learning how to do the work correctly and in a different sequence than what I learned before. It can be frustrating - especially when I think I have it down and realize that I don't. So, I had to jet after class today - I had to find my own space away from the group to clear my head and do the things that I need to do.
Herve' (previously mentioned as Harvey - my bad), took me to a Japanese Infrared Sauna. I sat for 50 minutes in a progressively high temperature and sweat out my frustration. He swore by the detoxifying effects (I wasn't disappointed), and we booked appointments for tomorrow after class. It gave me the same rush as my spa day, but cost much less :)
After the sauna, we walked in a park right in the middle of the city. Families were having picnics, there was some very dirty looking Thai massage going on (literally dirty - not naughty for those of you who need clarification), badminton games were in progress and joggers and walkers were navigating around the trail. There was a lovely pagoda-esque area in the center where apparently you can find Tai Chi every morning. We talked about his travels, his time in India at the ashram, his many friends all over the world. We talked about Fairfield, Iowa and his great desire to go there to spend time in the Vedic City. It was a peaceful interlude in a frustrating day.
After the walk and cooling off, we hoped on his bike and he took me to where the best vegetarian restaurant, tapas bar and salad restaurant all exist in close proximity. I was enthralled. I am in love with this city.
As he dropped me off at the guest house, I realized that once again I was inspired to write. And so here I go again :)
Saturday, June 4, 2011
Out With the Girls
I am losing weight. Not just because I was sick, but also because I have been moving constantly and sweating incessantly. I can see in my face that I lost the extra ring of padding around my jaw line that crept up on me over the past six months. I can also see that I am relaxed - no stress hanging on to my face. My eyes are brighter, my skin looks phenomenal. I feel good - my clothes are starting to get loose. I am doing what I came here to do :) Take care of me.
Last night was Girls Night Out. The ladies asked me to join them in a little shopping trip to the big mall. And I do mean big - four levels of the best of the west and east combined. Quite the change from the famous Night Market of Chiang Mai where we have been doing our shopping. No bartering here at the mall ;) Anyway - we were looking for dresses to wear in a night out on the town, and I (fortunately) found one right away. It looks very me - loose and flowing and rich in color. It looked perfect with my headband and funky hippie bracelet.
After a couple of hours of shopping and makeovers for Ally and Ellen at the MAC counter (I opted out, because I felt just grimy after class and riding all over town on a scooter), we headed back to the hotel to get ready. I was excited. We weren't going to go out until AT LEAST 9:00 (my usual bedtime, ha). We all looked fabulous and ready to hit the town.
We were looking for a Reggae bar that we had no name for and a place that I thought was called Zoe's and Yellow (it is actually called Zoe in Yellow). No cab driver even had a clue where this place was. So, after walking several blocks from where we were dropped off and asking locals and foreigners alike, we finally found it - thanks to Ellen for asking every person she saw where this place was.
It is an open area with lots of small bars and open spaces for dancing. There were food stands, foot massage stands and a plethora of bottles of alcohol scattered across several areas. The dj's were just getting started when we arrived - shortly before 10:00 (we were told to not even show up until 11, but I think the group was anxious and we were meeting up with our teacher from class - Mint and our classmate Mieke.
First stop was the Reggae bar. They weren't messing around with the rum - it hit me quickly and I found myself ready to just jump up and groove to the island sounds that were strangely at home in Thailand. But, no one was quite ready - so we moved on to another bar and sat and chatted and drank and sweated in the heavy night air.
Finally - enough was enough (actually it started to rain, and everyone was forced onto the dance floor). It was on. I started dancing and didn't stop unless we were switching locations or for a brief food break. My body was drenched in sweat and my feet and hips were burning, but I didn't care. I was a woman on a mission - I had to shake everything I had until I felt like there was nothing left to shake.
On the dance floor, I was everyone's partner :) I moved around and danced with Mikie and his girlfriend (from Denver) and the stinky guy from Canada and all my girls. It was truly a blast. I would have done it all night - but all good things must come to an end. We laughed so much and on the hilarious and somewhat funky cab ride back. It did my heart good.
Last night was Girls Night Out. The ladies asked me to join them in a little shopping trip to the big mall. And I do mean big - four levels of the best of the west and east combined. Quite the change from the famous Night Market of Chiang Mai where we have been doing our shopping. No bartering here at the mall ;) Anyway - we were looking for dresses to wear in a night out on the town, and I (fortunately) found one right away. It looks very me - loose and flowing and rich in color. It looked perfect with my headband and funky hippie bracelet.
After a couple of hours of shopping and makeovers for Ally and Ellen at the MAC counter (I opted out, because I felt just grimy after class and riding all over town on a scooter), we headed back to the hotel to get ready. I was excited. We weren't going to go out until AT LEAST 9:00 (my usual bedtime, ha). We all looked fabulous and ready to hit the town.
We were looking for a Reggae bar that we had no name for and a place that I thought was called Zoe's and Yellow (it is actually called Zoe in Yellow). No cab driver even had a clue where this place was. So, after walking several blocks from where we were dropped off and asking locals and foreigners alike, we finally found it - thanks to Ellen for asking every person she saw where this place was.
It is an open area with lots of small bars and open spaces for dancing. There were food stands, foot massage stands and a plethora of bottles of alcohol scattered across several areas. The dj's were just getting started when we arrived - shortly before 10:00 (we were told to not even show up until 11, but I think the group was anxious and we were meeting up with our teacher from class - Mint and our classmate Mieke.
First stop was the Reggae bar. They weren't messing around with the rum - it hit me quickly and I found myself ready to just jump up and groove to the island sounds that were strangely at home in Thailand. But, no one was quite ready - so we moved on to another bar and sat and chatted and drank and sweated in the heavy night air.
Finally - enough was enough (actually it started to rain, and everyone was forced onto the dance floor). It was on. I started dancing and didn't stop unless we were switching locations or for a brief food break. My body was drenched in sweat and my feet and hips were burning, but I didn't care. I was a woman on a mission - I had to shake everything I had until I felt like there was nothing left to shake.
On the dance floor, I was everyone's partner :) I moved around and danced with Mikie and his girlfriend (from Denver) and the stinky guy from Canada and all my girls. It was truly a blast. I would have done it all night - but all good things must come to an end. We laughed so much and on the hilarious and somewhat funky cab ride back. It did my heart good.
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Biker Chick on the mend
Yesterday I woke up feeling a little shaky, but so much better. I still had the sunken in look to my eyes, but I actually recognized myself. I made it to school for abdominal massage day (at first I was hesitant, but quickly realized that it was helping me settle my tummy). As the day progressed, I held closely to the diet of rice, bananas, electrolytes, bread and water. By the end of class I was raring to go.
I have to give props to my roomie for getting a scooter. He told me he would give me a ride after we got back yesterday evening from class to check out the city. For 200 baht a day, he has freedom to come and go as he chooses. I am jealous :) I asked him to teach me how to drive it...
So we hopped on the bike around 5:30 and set out to see Chiang Mai. He (Cory) was able to assimilate quickly, maneuvering in and out of traffic and following the break neck pace with surprising ease. Even more surprising was how much I was at peace on the back of that scooter... I wasn't nervous - I was exhilarated. I wanted him to go as fast as possible (again, the heat?) - so we headed out of town onto the open road and cruised. My stomach was iron clad in it's resolve to hang on to the meager lunch I had hours before.
Choking on fumes (the air pollution is horrendous here), we decided to stop and get some water and look for sunglasses. It is tough to ride around without some protection on your face. For whatever reason, finding sunglasses in this town is a major challenge. The locals just don't seem to wear them. No luck for us on that count. So we decided to look for the mall to grab some dinner.
At an intersection, we found another westerner friendly enough to offer directions to the mall. Turns out, his sister is from Cedar Rapids, Iowa - go figure. It is SUCH a small world. He was a friendly, hippie, ex-pat who gave us his take on life in a couple of minutes at the intersection. Find a woman with money, get lots of massage, and don't trust a massage therapist who doesn't like to receive massage - that is the sure sign of a control freak. His words - not mine :) We laughed with him and shouted our thanks over the roar of the traffic as the light changed.
We headed toward the mall (ironically, we were just up the road from it) and stopped at an outdoor Mexican cafe for some truly authentic Mexican food. I was ravenous and a bit over zealous in my enjoyment of real food (yes, I did pay for it later). However, in the moment - dirty and covered with road dust and pollution, free of abdominal pain, and starving from days without much to eat, I just didn't care. I had the best burrito of my life and a very strong Mojito.
After dinner, we walked the mall for a bit (still no sunglasses) and then on to my first scooter lesson. It was an experience I still can't stop laughing about. Cory assumed that because I was older or whatever that I knew what I was doing. Clearly I didn't - I almost ran us into traffic, and then couldn't back up properly. So, Cory got off the bike and backed me up and then let me practice on my own - (he was too scared to jump on with me). I circled around the parking lot of the gas station for a while, nearly running into the back of a truck in my confusion about braking and accelerating - almost took out a tent, and then caught the attentions of a local vendor who was there to set up shop for the next day. Between the vendor and the gas station attendants, I was a great source of amusement. :) After a few minutes, I had the balance down and the braking and acceleration were coming along, however, Cory didn't trust my new skills in the hectic Chiang Mai traffic. Seriously, people don't stop in this country!
So, we hopped on the bike with Cory driving, laughing about my attempts as we headed off into the muggy, frenzied night. Behind my shoulder, I could see the mountain in the dark - watching over us as we sped away... Cory weaving in and out of traffic like a scooter master. Maybe it was the combination of the laughter and the near death experience for the third time on this journey, but I almost felt like I was 20 something again. Having the burrito re-visit me in the middle of the night didn't even phase me later ;)
I have to give props to my roomie for getting a scooter. He told me he would give me a ride after we got back yesterday evening from class to check out the city. For 200 baht a day, he has freedom to come and go as he chooses. I am jealous :) I asked him to teach me how to drive it...
So we hopped on the bike around 5:30 and set out to see Chiang Mai. He (Cory) was able to assimilate quickly, maneuvering in and out of traffic and following the break neck pace with surprising ease. Even more surprising was how much I was at peace on the back of that scooter... I wasn't nervous - I was exhilarated. I wanted him to go as fast as possible (again, the heat?) - so we headed out of town onto the open road and cruised. My stomach was iron clad in it's resolve to hang on to the meager lunch I had hours before.
Choking on fumes (the air pollution is horrendous here), we decided to stop and get some water and look for sunglasses. It is tough to ride around without some protection on your face. For whatever reason, finding sunglasses in this town is a major challenge. The locals just don't seem to wear them. No luck for us on that count. So we decided to look for the mall to grab some dinner.
At an intersection, we found another westerner friendly enough to offer directions to the mall. Turns out, his sister is from Cedar Rapids, Iowa - go figure. It is SUCH a small world. He was a friendly, hippie, ex-pat who gave us his take on life in a couple of minutes at the intersection. Find a woman with money, get lots of massage, and don't trust a massage therapist who doesn't like to receive massage - that is the sure sign of a control freak. His words - not mine :) We laughed with him and shouted our thanks over the roar of the traffic as the light changed.
We headed toward the mall (ironically, we were just up the road from it) and stopped at an outdoor Mexican cafe for some truly authentic Mexican food. I was ravenous and a bit over zealous in my enjoyment of real food (yes, I did pay for it later). However, in the moment - dirty and covered with road dust and pollution, free of abdominal pain, and starving from days without much to eat, I just didn't care. I had the best burrito of my life and a very strong Mojito.
After dinner, we walked the mall for a bit (still no sunglasses) and then on to my first scooter lesson. It was an experience I still can't stop laughing about. Cory assumed that because I was older or whatever that I knew what I was doing. Clearly I didn't - I almost ran us into traffic, and then couldn't back up properly. So, Cory got off the bike and backed me up and then let me practice on my own - (he was too scared to jump on with me). I circled around the parking lot of the gas station for a while, nearly running into the back of a truck in my confusion about braking and accelerating - almost took out a tent, and then caught the attentions of a local vendor who was there to set up shop for the next day. Between the vendor and the gas station attendants, I was a great source of amusement. :) After a few minutes, I had the balance down and the braking and acceleration were coming along, however, Cory didn't trust my new skills in the hectic Chiang Mai traffic. Seriously, people don't stop in this country!
So, we hopped on the bike with Cory driving, laughing about my attempts as we headed off into the muggy, frenzied night. Behind my shoulder, I could see the mountain in the dark - watching over us as we sped away... Cory weaving in and out of traffic like a scooter master. Maybe it was the combination of the laughter and the near death experience for the third time on this journey, but I almost felt like I was 20 something again. Having the burrito re-visit me in the middle of the night didn't even phase me later ;)
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Finding healing in the inevitable illness....
I am sick. Too much heat and sweat and too little potassium and sodium have depleted my reserves. Add that to the remains of jet lag, and lack of consistent sleep, and I found myself delirious yesterday afternoon. I was manic - couldn't stop laughing, and then lethargy set in on the ride back to the hotel. I immediately jumped into the shower and laid on the bed in the cool fan air. I didn't recognize my own face in th mirror. Scary stuff.
I woke up at 3 a.m. In a cold sweat and wracked with diarrhea. My insides were churning, I was shaking, and I thought I was going to die for the second time in less than a week. I took my traveler's diarrhea medicine and struggled to fall back asleep. At 7 a.m. I couldn't even stand properly, but my cramping was gone. Afraid of what would happen, I sent my group off to school without me... With great apology and regret. Truly I am enjoying learning and don't want to miss a second.
I fell back asleep after drinking some electrolytes and woke two hours later to Skype with my favorite nursing student about what to do next. I haven't been eating enough- the result of the heat and figuring out my clock in a time zone 12 hours different from my own. So, I ate my last nutrition bar, drank a good couple of liters of water, and slept some more.
Feeling better around noon, I sent a message to the group to pick me up some rice and banana and Gatorade on the way back, and settled in to watch some Thai MTV.
Tonight I am sending them out to GNC (yes, it exists here too) to pick up some protein and supplements. All of my nutrition education is serving me well in this moment. I am re-establishing my nutrition base here. Turns out students do get sick here, so I am good with school. I can make up what I missed by coming early in the mornings if I want to.
As I watched the videos, I found some new music to fall in love with. It stoked my fire once more (although sick, it sill burns). I wanted to get up and dance - not today, but soon. How wonderful to have the opportunity to just be. Maybe I am still delirious, but I feel like even this was meant to happen. It made me take notice of my body - the vessel that contains my growing spirit. Something necessary, obviously. Even in sickness I am loving this and can't wait for more...
I woke up at 3 a.m. In a cold sweat and wracked with diarrhea. My insides were churning, I was shaking, and I thought I was going to die for the second time in less than a week. I took my traveler's diarrhea medicine and struggled to fall back asleep. At 7 a.m. I couldn't even stand properly, but my cramping was gone. Afraid of what would happen, I sent my group off to school without me... With great apology and regret. Truly I am enjoying learning and don't want to miss a second.
I fell back asleep after drinking some electrolytes and woke two hours later to Skype with my favorite nursing student about what to do next. I haven't been eating enough- the result of the heat and figuring out my clock in a time zone 12 hours different from my own. So, I ate my last nutrition bar, drank a good couple of liters of water, and slept some more.
Feeling better around noon, I sent a message to the group to pick me up some rice and banana and Gatorade on the way back, and settled in to watch some Thai MTV.
Tonight I am sending them out to GNC (yes, it exists here too) to pick up some protein and supplements. All of my nutrition education is serving me well in this moment. I am re-establishing my nutrition base here. Turns out students do get sick here, so I am good with school. I can make up what I missed by coming early in the mornings if I want to.
As I watched the videos, I found some new music to fall in love with. It stoked my fire once more (although sick, it sill burns). I wanted to get up and dance - not today, but soon. How wonderful to have the opportunity to just be. Maybe I am still delirious, but I feel like even this was meant to happen. It made me take notice of my body - the vessel that contains my growing spirit. Something necessary, obviously. Even in sickness I am loving this and can't wait for more...
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